There is no debate about the benefits of vitamin C for the skin! When it comes to the best choice for your skin, we're on the tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate team.
The problem is that while L-ascorbic acid is often touted as the "best" version to use, it is a notoriously unstable molecule. It is also quite irritating due to the high concentrations needed to be effective.
There are so many types of vitamin C in skin care; figuring out what will work for you can take time and effort.
This article will help you to know what type of vitamin C tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is and why you should consider using it over other types.
What is tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate?
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is also known as THD Ascorbate. It is an oil-soluble form of Vitamin C. Chemically speaking, THD Ascorbate is an ester of Vitamin C. This means that it is a chemically modified form of Vitamin C.
In the case of vitamin C, the esterification process changes the solubility from water to oil and improves the storage stability of the molecule.The most important thing to know is that the esterification reaction is reversible., which is why THD Ascorbate is so good and an amazing ingredient for the skin.
How Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Works
The reason why we lovefacial oilsso much so that oil-soluble active ingredients can penetrate better because they areyes water. That's why we are pleased to introduce you to this ingredient, presented inour vitamin c oil serum.penetration x absorptionIt's an important concept to understand when it comes to skin care effectiveness.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a fat-soluble precursor of L-ascorbic acid. Since it is oil-soluble, it can quickly and easily penetrate the outer waterproof layer of the skin, the stratum corneum.
When THD-ascorbate is applied topically, it is absorbed and converted back to L-ascorbic acid. While the exact cellular process is difficult to know (and we don't endorse animal testing), the evidence comes from in vitro tests (human cells in a lab) and in-use studies of people using products that contain them.
Benefits of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
The main benefit of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is that itpenetrate firstbetter and faster than traditional L-ascorbic acid. Once converted into the skin, it exerts the same effects. It is also stable and will not degrade efficiency while on the shelf.
Since it is not a direct acid, it is much better suited for sensitive skin and is less likely to irritate ordamages your skin barrier.
All vitamin C products will exert differentanti aging effects, including improving collagen synthesis and quality. I would expect to see the same benefits from using traditional ascorbic acid:
- Improved tone, brightness and lightening of dark spots.
- Greater elasticity and firmness thanks to the effects of collagen.
- Antioxidant effects at the cellular level once converted from THD-ascorbate
- Improved fine lines and wrinkles and overall skin health
Like traditional L-ascorbic acid, the effects are concentration dependent. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has been shown to reduce hyperpigmentation, including melasma, at high concentrations. It also enhances the effectiveness of other active ingredients that target age-related skin changes.
What are the risks of using tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate serum?
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is not known to have significant side effects, even when used with retinol. While any vitamin C ingredient can irritate sensitive skin, it is considered mild and non-irritating. THD Ascorbate Serums are an excellent addition to your beauty routine.
There is a common misperception that THD ascorbate is an antioxidant. It has powerful antioxidant properties, but that'sonly afterit is converted back to ascorbic acid in the skin. It is a stable molecule with a long shelf life and does not degrade while sitting; however, it is best used with another topical antioxidant ingredient in the final product. This ensures that you remain as active as possible during the conversion phase.
How to Apply Vitamin C Serum
While you've probably added vitamin C to your diet, you can't just put it on your skin. That's where vitamin C serums come in. Even traditional L-ascorbic acid needs to be dissolved and stabilized in serum form to incorporate into your skincare routine. It is always good practice to do a proper patch test before use.
Wash your face (and dry well) before applying. Depending on your skin type, you may need to combine this type of serum with others (or find an all-purpose product), ie.hyaluronic acid.
It is known that regular L-ascorbic acid does not work well with other ingredients. Generally avoiding niacinamide andretinol(and sometimes other ingredients) is recommended. The same problem is not known to be a problem with THD-ascorbate. It is specifically known not to react negatively with retinol.
Before or after moisturizer?
One of the best things about vitamin C oil serums is that they can also act as moisturizers. Some people don't need a separate product because the other oils in the serum are moisturizing emollients.
This is not true for everyone.
In general, we always recommend using face oil as the last step of your skincare routine so you can lock in all the moisture and beauty underneath.
An exception to this general rule is when you use a highly active oil serum with powerful ingredients like tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. In this situation, we recommend applying the vitamin C oil first and waiting about 5 minutes before applying the moisturizer.
How often to use vitamin C serum
Once or twice a day is better.
It will take time for you to experience the results; give yourself at least four weeks to see visible changes in skin tone and texture. If you use the serum in the morning, be sure to put it under sunscreen.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate vs Ascorbic Acid
This debate may never be fully answered because preferring one over the other is often a personal choice. Furthermore, no high-quality studies comparing the two ingredients head-to-head have been conducted. With so much variability in the products, concentrations and activity levels available, it is difficult to declare a clear winner.
This infographic compares the pros and cons of ascorbic acid versus tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate to help you decide which is best for you.
Ascorbil Tetraisopalmitato vs Tetrahexildecil Ascorbato
A different form of oil-soluble vitamin C is called ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate. There is a misperception that THD is the same as ascorbate: they are not synonymous.
As chemical modification and esterification can be done differently (i.e. different laboratory processes), some molecular differences may exist. For those of us who have no idea the difference between things like isopalmitic acid, hexadecanoic acid, and 2-hexyldecanoic acid, the big question is:Are there any major differences in results or stability from using the molecule?
More research is needed to decide whether the differences have any clinical relevance; Currently, it seems like the answer to this is probably not.
A third version of oil-soluble vitamin C is called ascorbyl palmitate. This version is less effective as a topical skin care ingredient. Still, it's a powerful antioxidant that helps stabilize other molecules in a formula, so it also has a role to play.
Safety of Vitamin C Serum in Pregnancy
Pregnancy and skin care safety is an issue that bothers us because brands play on women's fears during the most vulnerable period of their lives.
The first thing to do is always to discuss your concerns with your doctor for your peace of mind and education.
However, when it comes to using topical substances on the skin, absorption into the bloodstream is frankly not an issue. Certain very powerful medications are an exception (think tretinoin and hydroquinone), but they shouldn't be used without medical supervision.
There is no reason that a topical vitamin C oil or serum should have safety concerns.
Conclusion
Here it is! Our favorite form of vitamin C.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is more stable and less irritating than ascorbic acid.
THD Ascorbate is an efficient delivery system for vitamin C. Its lipid solubility and prodrug quality penetrate the skin more efficiently than L-ascorbic acid (LAA), so it can be rapidly metabolized by enzymes in its active form.
Stamford National Park. Stability, transdermal penetration and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives. J Cosmetic Dermatol. December 2012; 11(4):310-7.
Kelm RC, Zahr AS, Kononov T, Ibrahim O. Effective elimination of summer facial melasma with a dual regimen: a prospective, open-label, blinded study. J Cosmetic Dermatol. December 2020; 19(12): 3251-3257.
National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 10260680, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Tetrahexildecil-ascorbate.
National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem compound summary for CID 1012449.https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/1012449.
Telang PS. Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online J. 2013 Apr;4(2):143-6.
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